Knitting On The Net



Hundreds Of Free Knitting Patterns And So Much More

Barbara Breiter's Knitting On The Net

Author of The Complete Idiot's Guide To
Knitting & Crocheting Illustrated (3rd ed.)



               

Untitled

Learn To Knit
Knitting Help


Free Patterns

What's New!

Babies/Kids

Babies
Kids

Adult Clothing

Shrugs/Boleros
Ponchos
Sweaters
Vests
Hats
Socks
Slippers
Mittens
Shawls & Wraps
Scarves & Cowls

Other Patterns

Purses
Afghans
Motifs/Charts
Bookmarks
Cloths/Hot Pads
Pets
Odd Ball
Odds & Ends
Dolls & Toys
Holidays
Felting Patterns


Knitters Will Love...

Stitch Patterns
Knitting Clip Art
Wallpaper & Icons
Yarn Shop Reviews
Knitting Guilds
Puzzles
Recommended Books


Knit A Bit Patterns

Contact
Advertise Info

Home




Search This Site





Zip Up The Back Hooded Baby Sweater

Kathy Roletter Gaynor

Zip Up The Back Hooded Baby Sweater

Back view, knit by Bernadette Borse

This zip up the back baby sweater is knitted circularly from the hood down. The sleeves are knit in the round so there are no seams but you may work them back and forth in rows if desired and then sew the seam.

Zip Up The Back Hooded Baby Sweater

Front view, knit by Bernadette Borse

Materials:
3 balls Paton's Look At Me baby sport
50 grams/152 yards
Size 4 US (3.5 mm) circular 24" or longer for hood and body of sweater
Size 2 US (2.75 mm) circular 24" or longer for body ribbing
Size 4 US (3.5 mm) double points for sleeves
Size 2 US (2.75 mm) double points for sleeve cuffs
E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
Stitch markers
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle
Regular zipper, 20" in color to match yarn
Regular sewing thread in color to match yarn and needle to hand stitch zipper in place down the back (or use sewing machine)

Size:
Newborns
Finished chest measurement=18"

Gauge:
6 sts and 7½ rows = 1" in St st with larger needles

Zip Up The Back Hooded Baby Sweater

View of hood, knit by Bernadette Borse

Instructions
Optional Note:
I slip the first st purlwise and purl the last st on every row throughout the whole sweater for a nice chain edge on each side. If you want to do this, the ribbing rows will be: Slip first st purlwise, K1, K2, P2 to last 2 sts, K1, P1.
Hood
With larger needles, CO 78 sts. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 7 rows.
Row 8: K10, cont rib to last 10 sts, k10
Row 9: P10, cont rib to last 10 sts, p10
Row 10: Rep Row 8.
Row 11: K12, cont rib to last 12 sts, k12
Row 12: P12, cont rib to last 12 sts, p12
Row 13: Rep Row 11.
Row 14: K14, cont rib to last 14 sts, k14
Row 15: P14, cont rib to last 14 sts, p14
Row 16: Rep Row 14.
Row 17: K16, cont rib to last 16 sts, k16
Row 18: P16, cont rib to last 16 sts, p16
Row 19: Rep Row 17.

Cont as est, adding 2 more sts on both sides of center rib sts until center K2 (RS) rib sts rem. End with WS row completed. Hood should meas 7" from beg. BO loosely. Do not break yarn.

Neck Ribbing
Cont with same needles.
You have one st rem on needle from binding off. Pick up 27 sts along right edge of hood, CO 8 new sts, pick up 28 sts along left edge of hood - 64 sts
Knit one row to form a garter ridge at top of ribbing on right side of sweater. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 8 rows, then K 2 rows to form a garter ridge at bottom of ribbing on right side of sweater.
Neck ribbing should measure about 1¼" including garter ridges at top and bottom.

Yoke
Top of body and sleeves are worked in one piece.
Row 1: K12, M1, place marker, M1, K8, M1, place marker, M1, K24, M1, place marker, M1, K8, M1, place marker, M1, K12 - 72 sts
Row 2: Purl all sts, slipping markers.
Row 3: K13, M1, slip marker, M1, K10, M1, slip marker, M1, K26, M1, slip marker, M1, K10, M1, slip marker, M1, K13 - 80 sts
Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Cont as est, inc one st before and after each marker (8 inc sts total on every knit row), until you have 54 sts in the front (middle) section of sweater yoke. You will have 184 sts in all distributed as follows:
27 sts for right back, 38 sts for right sleeve, 54 sts for front, 38 sts for left sleeve, 27 sts for left back.
You have worked a total of 30 rows on the yoke. End with a purl row. Yoke should measure 3¾" from bottom of neck ribbing.

Body
Worked from armholes down to bottom cuff.
Row 1: K27, remove marker, place 38 sleeve sts on stitch holder, remove marker, K54, remove marker, place 38 sts on stitch holder, remove marker, K27 - 108 sts. Be sure you pull the yarn tight across the gap where sleeve sts are taken off needle.
Purl next row.
Work even in St st until body of sweater measures 5" or desired length from armholes.
Change to smaller needles and work in k1, p1 ribbing for 1½" for bottom.
BO loosely. Do not break yarn.

Insert crochet hook in last st and work a single crochet edge along the back edges of sweater where zipper will be inserted later. If desired, work a single crochet edge around face opening of hood for a neat finish.

Sleeves
Note: You can work sleeves back and forth and then seam later.
Place sleeve sts on larger double point needles and divide evenly. Join (leave a good 12" tail of yarn at this point for closing up tiny holes when done) and work in St st until sleeve measures 4" (or desired length) from armhole.
Change to smaller double point needles and work in K1, P1 ribbing for 1".
BO loosely.

Finishing
Weave in ends of yarn on WS. Close up tiny holes where the sleeves and body meet, then weave in ends.
With sewing thread and sewing needle (or sewing machine), sew in zipper down back with zipper opening at bottom ribbing of body.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.